The moscato craze shows no sign of abating, and wines such as the Santi Moscato Montedoro ($12) provide ample evidence why. Large and lovely floral and tropical fruit aromas fill the nose (and part of the room), and that sweet but never cloying fruit interplays with just enough acidity to coat the mouth sensuously. With balance and persistence, the Italian white finishes in lovely fashion. Try it with most any dessert, mildly spicy Asian dishes or perhaps at Thanksgiving, where it will play well with myriad dishes. Available at all Haskell's outlets.